Herzog Maurice
Herzog was a French alpinist most famously associated with the conquest of Annapurna in June 1950. This was the first 8000 metre peak to be climbed, a feat made more remarkable by the climbers' decision not to use supplemental oxygen during the climb. Although the climb was successful the descent became a two-week epic, from which Herzog narrowly escaped with his life.
Herzog's book of the expedition, Annapurna, has long been regarded as one of the most significant and inspirational texts in the mountaineering genre.
Herzog subsequently enjoyed successful careers in politics (including as French Minister for Sport from 1958 - 1963) and sports administration (including as a member of the International Olympic Committee from 1970 - 1995).
Herzog's military service during WWII was recongnised by the French Government which awarded him the Legion d'Honneur and the Croix de Guerre.
“I felt as though I were plunging into something new and quite abnormal. I had the strangest and most vivid impressions, such as I had never before known in the mountains. There was something unnatural in the way I saw Lachenal and everything around us. I smiled to myself at the paltriness of our efforts, for I could stand apart and watch myself making these efforts. But all sense of exertion was gone, as though there were no longer any gravity. This diaphanous landscape, this quintessence of purity--these were not the mountains I knew: they were the mountains of my dreams (pp.206-207).”